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<\/a>Hi everyone!\u00a0 I’m writing in bed with a wool blanket, two down comforters, and the puppy on top of me (with\u00a0a glass of wine nearby).\u00a0 Keith is\u00a0in Paris\u00a0right now doing secret scientific\u00a0stuff\u00a0which has me\u00a0reminiscing\u00a0about my\u00a0French cooking adventure\u00a0this past summer in Lyon.\u00a0 Before going anywhere, I usually search for food\u00a0blogs in the area to try get to know a place from the locals.\u00a0 In researching Lyon, I stumbled on Lucy’s Kitchen Notebook<\/a>, a\u00a0scrumptious blog by American expat Lucy\u00a0Vanel.\u00a0 Even more exciting, she\u00a0had recently started a cooking school, Plum Lyon<\/a>,\u00a0out of her home in the historic Croix-Rousse district.\u00a0 I signed up for\u00a0her market to table class and counted down the days until I could be there.<\/p>\n Keith and I stayed in a\u00a0room on the fourth floor of an old building with unusually large and winding stone steps and windows that opened onto the courtyard.\u00a0 There were large pots of multi-colored hydrangeas and birds darted in and out a lot, their squawking amplified by the\u00a0stone courtyard so much that it felt as if I had a\u00a0flock right above my head.\u00a0 You could also hear everyone’s conversations (mostly they were talking about how loud the birds were!).\u00a0 Golds, burgundy, and emeralds dominated the room, just how I imagined it to be.\u00a0 The curtains were\u00a0a heavy silk and damask combination held open on one side by a thick rope of gold and silver\u00a0silk.\u00a0 The walls were covered with a a shimmery cream wall paper with ornate pattern.\u00a0 There was a marble and cast iron\u00a0fireplace and the lights just bright enough to make everything look\u00a0even more golden.\u00a0 In the sitting area were red velvet chairs (perfect for writing in my\u00a0journal or lounging with coffee).\u00a0 The bathroom was bright and modern with a full-sized tub.\u00a0 I was pretty in love with all of it.<\/p>\n I walked to Lucy’s neighborhood\u00a0on the first\u00a0morning\u00a0in the city toward the old silk district.\u00a0 It was lovely and hilly.\u00a0 I wore my favorite\u00a0flowy lace skirt, a striped t-shirt, sandals, and black sunglasses.\u00a0 The stair steps\u00a0were neverending.\u00a0 My favorite\u00a0part\u00a0was\u00a0going through a traboule<\/em> that\u00a0was like a\u00a0secret passageway.\u00a0 It was actually used for\u00a0silk transport back in the day so that the fabrics didn’t get wet.\u00a0 Finally, I got to 49 Rue des Tables Claudiennes, Lucy’s cooking school.\u00a0 We had a little coffee while we waited for one other student that day.\u00a0 Her name was Gina, from Mt. Prospect Illinois, of all places!\u00a0 We headed out or shall I say “up” to the market.\u00a0 I saw the reason for Lucy’s market bag on wheels.<\/p>\n The Croix-Rousse market was bustling with its 200 plus vendors.\u00a0 Later, I\u00a0learned that every neighborhood in Lyon\u00a0is near an outdoor market and\u00a0\u00a0a lot\u00a0of people\u00a0are fiercely proud and loyal to the one nearest to them.\u00a0 The markets run year-round.\u00a0 It was July when I was there.\u00a0 The strawberries were finishing (I saw a few mignonettes).\u00a0 The\u00a0cherries and\u00a0currants\u00a0were in full swing.\u00a0 We stopped at a stand to taste some cherries.\u00a0 I was really happy to see about a dozen types of onions.\u00a0 The market smelled of roasting chicken, skewered and roasting in spits, making everyone salivate,\u00a0begging to be taken home or devoured on the spot.\u00a0 There was a lot of cheese.\u00a0 I especially loved the little thimble-sized chevre.\u00a0 We tasted some fat and to-die-for\u00a0Lyonnaise sausages.\u00a0 There were some spicy ones, some\u00a0mixed with pistachios, black pepper, and\u00a0truffles.\u00a0 Beets are not my favorite root vegetable but it was interesting to see it being sold already cooked.\u00a0 What a great idea.<\/p>\n An atypical sight was fresh offal.\u00a0 I was especially drawn to a case filled with hearts from different animals.\u00a0\u00a0Tradition Lyonnaise food utilizes the offal.\u00a0 The meals were\u00a0and still are served in bouchons where the people usually know and have a connection with the owner.\u00a0 Bouchons were originally the inns where the silk workers ate in the 17th and 18th centuries.\u00a0 The dishes are heavy, fatty, and comforting.\u00a0 Some traditional dishes are tripe sausage, quenelles<\/em>, coq au vin<\/em>, and boudin noir<\/em>.<\/p>\n There were also a few stands with some gorgeous and unusual types of fish and fowl.\u00a0 The\u00a0market bag\u00a0slowly filled-up with lots of herbs, courgettes, apples,\u00a0squash blossoms, eggplant,\u00a0and duck breasts.\u00a0 I loved the guy in the collage above smoking and displaying his beautiful collection of lettuce.\u00a0 It’s all about balance in life, right?\u00a0 Another thing we purchased was a block of the jellied tripe pictured below.\u00a0 After the market, we went a couple blocks to a bakery for some baguette then to a cheese shop.\u00a0 I was especially excited about it because my friend Andy<\/a> (who knows just a little bit about cheese) gave me a list to try.\u00a0 Lucy liked the list so we found and bought most of Andy’s recommendations.\u00a0 We zigzagged downhill (thank goodness)\u00a0through a park, saw some cute dogs, and finally were back in Lucy’s kitchen.\u00a0 After unloading and cleaning the groceries, Lucy heated up the jellied tripe, sliced some sausages, and poured us some Cr\u00e9mant de Bourgogne<\/em>.<\/p>\n![\"marchedelacroixrousse\"](\"http:\/\/driftlessappetite.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/marchedelacroixrousse.jpeg\")
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